Seoul Searching
On March 7, 2012 by Admin
Delegates of the International Korean Adoptee Associations conference experienced Seoul and its diverse heritage and left with a greater understanding of themselves.
By Kevin Woo One+ | December 10, 2010
A TRIP TO SEOUL CHANGED LIBBY AND DAVID GLUCK FOREVER. The couple had planned the visit for years. They studied pictures, day dreamed and filled out enough paperwork to choke a super-sized recycling bin. But when you ask Libby what tourist sites she most looked forward to visiting, she admits she didn’t give it much thought.
Her lack of specificity can be forgiven. The 30-something couple didn’t visit Seoul as tourists-they went to pick up their adopted daughter. Baby Georgina certainly isn’t the first infant adoptee to leave Indochina for a new home.
Prior to the trip, Libby-herself an adoptee, barely had time to think about diapers, formula and car seats, let alone Seoul’s sights. But after reflecting for a few moments, Libby recalled that she and her husband planned to spend time exploring Seoul’s neighborhoods, finding off-the beaten-path restaurants that serve home style soon tubu jjigae (tofu soup) and visiting some of Seoul’s famous flea markets.
In August, 800 members of the International Korean Adoptee Associations (IKAA) visited Seoul. The conference was a cultural exchange of sorts, with Korean adoptees from Australia, Europe, North America and Scandinavia meeting to share experiences, network with Korean nationals and make professional connections.
Tim Holm, IKAA president, says that the group wanted to go beyond teaching English or assisting with birth searches. “We really wanted to promote business and professional exchanges,” Holm told the Korea Herald.
Each year, U.S. citizens adopt 1,600 Korean children. Korea’s international adoption program began in the 1950s, and since then more than 180,000 children have been adopted worldwide. Although the program has been active for 60 years, adoption is still frowned upon by Koreans, and in-country adoption is rare. A 2009 Korean Women’s Development Institute and Korean Unwed Mothers’ Support Network study concluded that unwed Korean mothers are regarded as criminals, careless and irresponsible.
Dr. Kim Park-Nelson, a professor of multicultural studies at Minnesota State herself an adoptee, head ed a symposium at the conference where the cultural, social, historical and political implications of Korean adoption were discussed. Park-Nelson says that conferences such as IKAA are important to the adoptee community, because as the number of transnational adoptions grows, more people struggle to find their identities. “With adoption there’s always the question, ‘Who are you? Are you American or are you Korean? Are you white or are you Asian?”‘ Park-Nelson said.
For many IKAA conference attendees, visiting Seoul was a step toward discovering the answers.
Leave the Maps at Home
Because questions of identity and culture can be weighty, conference organizers planned activities that encouraged attendees to get out, experience Seoul and learn about their heritage. IKAA delegates participated in the “Adoptee Amazing Race,” which was modeled after the TV series The Amazing Race. Participants were divided into teams of five, and they worked their way around the city scavenger hunt-style to gather clues, visit sites and absorb some of the local culture. Mobile phones were banned, and competitors had to rely on locals for directions.
They quickly discovered that guide books and maps weren’t overly helpful because Koreans typically use landmarks, not addresses, when giving directions. Want to visit the Gwanghwamun Flea Market? Take the subway to the Gwanghwamum Station and walk past the U.S. Embassy to Yulinmadang Park. Interested in checking out handcrafts made by college students? Take the subway to the Hongik University Station, walk straight to the four-way intersection, turn left and follow the uphill road. Sounds simple, right?
Flea markets have become popular in recent years and can be found throughout the city. Most are easily accessible via sub way. You can buy just about anything at a flea market-groceries, arts and crafts, souvenirs, food, ceramics and even refrigerators, washers and dryers (try carrying those home on the subway). The Seoul Folk Flea Market and the Hwanghak dong Flea Market are two of the city’s most popular.
The Seoul Folk Flea Market, which runs alongside the famous Cheonggyecheon Stream, attracts thousands of shoppers each week. Nine hundred vendors sell regional arts and crafts, Joseon Dynasty pottery and (of course) food. And how do you get there? Ride the subway to the Sinseol-dong Station, take Exit 9 and walk straight for 100 meters.
At the Hwanghak-dong Flea Market, shoppers can find just about anything-books, jewelry, clothing and electronics. Vendors sell new items at up to 20 percent below retail, along with used goods. The Hwanghak-dong Flea Market is located near the Sindang Subway Station. Take Exit 2 and walk for three minutes toward the Hwanghak-dong office.
Good Eats
The local food scene is a mixed bag. If you like meat, chick en or fish and don’t mind salty or spicy food, you’ll likely enjoy the cuisine. But if you’re a vegetarian or avoid carbs, you might have a tough time finding something that suits your tastes.
Korean restaurants are different from those in the West. While Western menus offer a variety of appetizers, entrees and desserts, Korean restaurants typically have very limited menus. It’s not uncommon for a restaurant to only offer two or three items, and you’ll find that diners frequently go to restaurants for a particular dish.
Vegans who find themselves in the Insadong section of Seoul might want to check out Hanguachae. The restaurant serves soy-based soups, seasonal greens, home made acorn jelly and porridge, all from locally grown ingredients. Hanguachae is located on Insadong Street near the Anguk Subway Station and next to a pottery and ceramic store.
If you want to kick it up a notch, Tripad visor.com ranks Tosokchon among the best restaurants in all of Seoul. Locals begin to queue up early because seating is limited. Tosokchon’s menu also is limited (they only sell samgyetang–ginseng chicken soup), and the menus are only printed in Korean. H you find yourself unable to communicate with the wait staff, simply say “samgyetang” or point to the stone pot at the next table. Tosokchon is located five minutes from Exit 2 at the Gyeonbokgung Subway Station.
Getting Around
International travelers fly in and out of Incheon International Airport. Incheon is located 30 miles west of the city and has been recognized internationally for its superior customer service. With its own art museum, spa, sleeping rooms and an 18-hole golf course, the airport is a city within the city.
Gimpo International Airport is a 20-minute drive outside of Center City. It is used for domestic flights and short hops to southern China and Japan.
Most major hotels offer complimentary shuttle service to and from both Incheon and Gimpo. Trains and express buses are also popular when traveling between the airports and Seoul.
Seoul’s extensive (and high-tech) subway system is an easy and inexpensive way to get around town. More than eight mil lion trips per day are made on the Seoul Metropolitan Subway, making it one of the world’s busiest public transportation systems. Fourteen subway lines crisscross the city as well as some of the outlying areas such as Incheon (a leading business center), Gyeonggi-do (the biggest province in South Korea) and northern Chungcheongnam-do (South Korea’s fastest growing region).
For those who wish to cab it, some taxis are equipped with free interpretation services. Passengers can speak by telephone to an operator who will translate directions to the driver in Korean. Experienced visitors suggest writing directions in Hangeul, the phonetic Korean alphabet, as cabbies find it easier to understand written instructions than spoken English.
Autumn is regarded widely as the best time to visit Seoul because it’s sunny, the temperatures are mild and fall foliage makes the hillsides ripe with color. By comparison, the summer months tend to be brutally hot and humid, and the winter can be bitterly cold.
And Baby Makes Three
The Glucks traveled to Seoul in late October, at the height of the fall foliage and mild weather, to pick up Georgina. They were able to extend their trip and explore the sights, sounds and smells of Seoul. The self-described foodies navigated their way around town and found specialty restaurants, unique neighborhoods and some locals who saw the Glucks as an opportunity to practice English.
Libby reflected on the trip upon her return. She was keenly aware that during her stay she was Korean and American, Asian and Caucasian, adoptee and adopter and, now, daughter and mom.
“It was very full circle that I traveled to Korea to pick up the baby,” she said. “I knew the emotions were going to flood in when we set foot in Korea. I felt like I was on a nice vacation but with a huge added bonus.
“She felt like an old soul in Seoul-just like her 800 counterparts at the IKAA conference. One+
KEVIN WOO is a freelance writer from San Francisco.